Tag Archives: Wine

Marie’s Kellerkinder 2015

Kellerkinder, it sounds so sweet. Marie’s little children, the 2015 wines fresh up from the cellar. You could have suspected them to be a little shy, so newly awekened and hastily brought up in daylight for public display – and taste. Well, perhaps a few of them, a little, on the nose, but overall it seemed like they loved to be on stage; “we are here, come taste us, we are so lovely!”

Villa im Paradies, Familie Menger-Krug, Deidesheim

We, the two winelovers from Sweden, where on the road from Alsace and had actually set the GPS on Landau in southern Pfalz, when we decided to continue a bit further north. To Deidesheim, where we last year met with Marie Menger-Krug. Then it was in the middle of March, cold and still no leaves on trees and bushes. We wanted to see the garden behind Villa im Paradies dressed in green. And we wanted to see Marie again. No appointment made, so just hoping for luck.

Vinothek, Villa im Paradies, Kellerkinder 2015, Menger-Krug

Now we can assure you. Villa im Paradies’ garden is beautiful in green, just as we thought it would be. A relaxing place, so nice just to sit under the big tree, sipping on glass of white.

Vinothek, Villa im Paradies, Kellerkinder 2015, Menger-Krug

Wait, what’s up? We see a long row of wine coolers and bottles on a table outside the vinothek.

We ask if Marie is there. We are lucky, She is.

Marie Menger-Krug

So good to see Marie again, even if it’s just a short meeting. Full of energy and very happy with the new vintage. She has other guests waiting for her, but insists that we must stay and taste all the new wines.

Jahrgangspresentation weekend, she explains, a presentation of the new 2015 vintage. Aha, that explains the line up of wines.  We must have missed the sign outside.

So, we sit down under the huge green parasol and and tuck into the wines. However, Marie, we must admit, not all of them.

 Villa im Paradies, Kellerkinder 2015, Menger-Krug

Beautiful, that is the general impression: young (of course), clean, refreshing acidity, minerality and that so important mouth feel. Boxes ticked off.

We start with the off-dry, lightly aromatic Motzenbäcker-Pfalz Muskateller QbA with nice mouthfeel and length. The Motzenbäcker-Pfalz Sauvignon Blanc QbA trocken is refreshing, green of gooseberries and elderflower and enjoyable palate feel.

Then a real hit! Marie 2015, Motzenbäcker-Pfalz trocken.
We liked Marie’s first vintage of Marie, the 2014, but now the 2015 is superb. A Riesling – Weissburgunder blend, picking up the best of each variety. A chalky minerality, lemon, green pears and a bit spicieness. Dry, well balanced, fills every inch of the palate with delicate, aromatic aromas, fresh integreted acidity and a gorgeous length. Energetic!

Three Weissburgunder follows. The Bechtheimer Rosengarten Spätlese trocken from Rheinhessen becomes our favourite with its deep flavours, fresh young green fruit, pears and lemon and a bit smokey, chalky minerality and superb mouth feel and length. (All three Weissburgunders are dry, but this one has a little bit more residual sugar. Perhaps that seduces us?)

Riesling Alte Reben 2015, Menger-Krug

Outstanding is the Riesling Alte Reben, Ruppersberger Reiterpfad Spätlese trocken, Motzenbäcker-Pfalz. Concentrated rich aromas, almost dry fruitiness with focus on lemon. A bit spicieness. Crispy, high acidity, fresh minerality. Superb on the palate. Want!

But also the other two Rieslings, the Deidesheimer Paradiesgarten Riesling Kabinett trocken and  the Riesling …dem Himmel so nah! Ruppertsberger Reiterpfad Spätlese trocken show very well. Riesling role models with high, integrated acidity, minerality, balance, length and superb mouth feel. Especially the Reiterpfad shows a lovely cotton fabric texture. We would gladly put a number of these in our cellar.

However, we have to be patient and wait. Wait till all the little wines graduate from Menger-Krug’s finishing school and as bottled adults are prepared for a life outside the cosy cellar.

Vinothek, Villa im Paradies, Kellerkinder 2015, Menger-Krug

Suddenly so dark in the garden. The lurking thunderstorm had reached Deidesheim. We moved inside for the last wines. Rain poured down, electricity disappeared and candles lit up the vinothek for us and some other guests without umbrellas.

The clock had passed opening hours since long when we hurriedly walked through the rain. Then we saw the sign. The one we missed a couple of hours earlier: Kellerkinder 2015.

Kellerkinder 2015, Villa im Paradies, Familie Menger-Krug, Deidesheim

Previously on Lovely winegrapes about Marie Menger-Krug and our visit in Deidesheim 2015:

 

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Distilled Salwey

I nibble gingerbreads and sip on Salwey spirits. At last. The Salways are delicious but He has been stingy. We visited Kaiserstuhl in March, but the Trester was not opened until a couple of weeks ago. So tonight, when the cat’s away… I  look around, find the Apfelbrand. And the gingerbread tin.

Sandi Benzarti at Weingut Salwey-0198

In the winery in Oberrotweil it is Sandi Benzarti who puts his soul in the making of the spirits. Cellarmaster for the wines and master distiller. A responsibility including the column still as well as the cellar where the flavours slowly grow and mature. The ones not on barrel is stored in big brown stoneware vessels, reminding me of old, traditional Höganäs stoneware from the south of Sweden.

Not only pomace, the left-over from the wine production, is put through the distiller. Fruit are also found among the raw material. Apple is a speciality, where the fruit pulp is distilled directly, i.e. skipping the step to first make juice from the apples.

Even if the range has been tightened up the last years, I count to about 15 different spirits on the list. What to choose? At the recommendation of my host I put a Trester matured in oak barrel and an Apfelbrand on the purchase list.

Salwey Destillat

Trester vom Kaiserstuhl is distilled from Spätburgunder (Pinot Noir) pomace and then matured three years on oak barrel. The alcohol, 45%, attacks but softens fast to fruity notes. A lot of flavour, from the start to the very long end. Suits my taste buds, very fine!

Rinzbergwasser Apfelbrand is made of apples grown around Glottertal in the south of  Schwartzwald. Three years on barrel for this one too. 42%. The nose full of yellow fruit, soft and spicy. On the palate additional notes of almond paste. Soft, focussed, pensil in its very good length. Excellent, delicious and my favourite!

Both really nice pairings to Nyåker’s Gingerbreads. Better put these bottles out of sight and save to Advent.

Sandi Benzarti at Weingut Salwey, Oberrotweil

Länk till Weingut Salwey’s homepage, list of spirits.  

Previously on Lovely Wine Grapes about Weingut Salwey and our trip in Pfalz and Baden:
-Salwey in Grauburgunder Heaven
-Bone dry Salwey
-Kaiserstuhl Weekend
-Wine Route Impressions from Pfalz and Baden
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Weingut Salwey winery in Oberrotweil, Kaiserstuhl

Salwey in Grauburgunder Heaven

High, high up in the beautiful Grauburgunder heaven hovers Salwey. Super dry wines light as the most slender summer clouds. Unfortunately they rise almost out of reach for us Swedish consumers, but everyone who fancy a trip to Baden (and who doesn’t?) can fill the boot with Grauburgunder from the winery in Oberrotweil.

With origin in the slopes of Kaiserstuhl, Konrad Salwey’s vines can almost look across the river Rhen to Alsace where their relatives carry the name Pinot Gris. Those are the ones we see as the lower clouds in this grape heaven. Not that we don’t like Alsace Pinot Gris. We are happy to let well chosen wines refresh our palates. But as they often are heavy of residual sugar, it is not that strange that they descend to lower height. It is another World. In Sweden, the monopoly feeds us with a range of wines that, although marketed as dry, normally have around 10 grams/litre.

Weingut Salwey is one of the bigger producers around Kaiserstuhl. Big, but also a member of VDP with Grand Cru-plots  in the vineyard portfolio. Renowed for his Grauburgunder that comes in three qualities.  The entry level, “gutswein”, is the bestseller with around 40.000 bottles per year. Uncomplicated, lightly perfumed and of course dry. Salwey is known to make the driest wines in the area around the old vulcano Kaiserstuhl. Needing to be careful with the car boot space for the road back home, we however prefered to raise the level of quality for our purchase. RS, Reserve Salwey, gets our liking. A QbA wine that gets a dose of grapes from the very best plots.

“2013 is perhaps our very best vintage ever,” said Philipp Hettich about the Grauburgunder RS when we visited Salwey earlier this spring. Delicious of very good quality we thought already back then, but Philipp emphasized that some more months in bottle should be beneficial. Thus we uncork now and cannot resist to pour the top quality in glass number two. We enjoy to compare them again already now, even if Salwey considers the wines to have a beautiful life ahead up till 2025-2030.

Salwey Grauburgunder

The grapes for Salwey Grauburgunder RS 2013 come from clones giving small grapes. Philipp underlines this, they strive for small grapes. 80% comes from loess soils in Käsleberg. The remaining 20% has the origin in the grand cru plots in Henkenberg and Eichberg where the roots bury themselves in old vulcanic soil.

The grapes get 24 hours maceration before pressing and fermentation, without sedimentation. Then raised on its lees in large 1200 liters barrels made of oak from Kaiserstuhl. The malo is also made in the barrels. Regular battonage increase the body of this slender, very dry wine. Bottled without filtration. Residual sugar stops at low 1,5 grams/litre.

The RS is  slim, aiming for elegance. Beautiful golden yellow hue with hints of well polished coppar. Very smokey, champignons, forest and barque. It is dry, so dry, the fine acidity almost attacks. Fruity towards butter-pear and a slice of apricot. Gentle floral notes and light minerality. Spreads in the palate and stays so long.  

Easy drinking delicious, a bit straight forward. That is the sum up of the RS. More dimensions are offered by the grand cru quality. Grosses Gewächs Henkenberg is even drier and is showing itself in layer upon layer.

The vineyard in Henkenberg, on the road from Oberrotweil to Burkheim, is Salwey’s most important for Grauburgunder. The vulcanic soil dominates but is complemented with loess and calcareous clay on the top. The vinification is almost the same as for RS, but added stems during maceration give more texture and even a touch of tannin. This is even drier than RS.

Salwey Henkenberg Grauburgunder 2012 Grosses Gewächs is a bit more shy today and wants to aerate its copper golden body to release the aromas of smoke and apricot. Enjoyable fine sandpaper texture on the palate. Dry, dry, dry and at the same time rich palate filling fruitiness against a backdrop of smokeyness, champignon cream and minerality. The complexity is revealed in the glass, layer by layer, as time goes. The aftertaste is long and fruity with a vaxy feeling in the end. Complex, integrated, strict and soft at the same time. Delicious, so, so lovely.

Complex, light and fresh, that is what we find among the upper white clouds in the Grauburgunder/Pinot Gris heaven.

Weingut Salwey

Link to home page: Weingut Salwey

 

Vilmart Rubis, Pink Princess Champagne

Not that she is that interested. Milk or cream, preferably lightly whipped, that’s what she wants. We on the other hand, we take every opportunity to open a bottle of champagne. This summery Saturday afternoon the choice is pink bubbles from Vilmart & Cie. We raise our glasses and toast for all beautiful cats around the globe and especially for little Princess, of course. It is the 8th of August; it is the international cat day, World Cat Day.

Champagne Vilmart Cuvée Rubis Brut is beautifully deep orange-red, yes you can come to think of rubies. Fine ample effervescence. Dark berries and bready touch in the nose, concentrated rich fruit on the palate. Delicious texture and exquisite flavour palette where strawberries and cranberries dominate and taste long, so long.
This is rosé champagne with fresh weight. Must be one of the most delicious ones we have tasted.

Champagne Vilmart Cuvée Rubis Brut

A Premier Cru with base wine of 90% Pinot Noir and 10% Chardonnay from vintages 2009-2010, matured ten months on large oak barrels. Of course oak, this is Vilmart. A house were all wines are raised in barrel. Size and time depending on final product.

The bottle has rested in our cellar in almost two years after our visit at Vilmart in Rilly-la-Montagne the autumn 2013. I take a look in the product sheet and read that Vilmart’s owner, as well as winemaker, Laurant Champs considers it to be at its optimum after one to two years. Well, it will be hard to become any better than this. We make a memory note, at the next visit we must put more Rubis in the boxes.

Little Princess was however totally uninterested of pink champagne. Did not want to be on the picture, but went quickly in through the cat door to the waiting milk bowl. A bit surprising therefore, how fast she joins us when the bottle with dinner wine is to be photographed. A white bordeaux is put on the table and suddenly she comes and jumps up to inspect it.

This time the label says Coucheroy. A very nice Sauvignon Blanc with fine oak character from vintage 2009, from André Lurton’s château with the same name in Pessac-Léognan. The name Coucheroy (something like “the king slept here”) is said to have been born a stormy night many hundred years ago, when the French king Henri IV spent a night on the castle. Royal glory, then it is good enough for little Princess.

Ch Coucheroy 2009

Superb Bubbles à la Clotilde

We met the super nice Clotilde Davenne in March when she was one of the six “terrific wine women” who visited Ästad Vingård in Sweden. Then she lined up some superb wines from her wide range. For Clotilde is not just super nice, but also a super skilled winemaker.

Now, this was not meant as an in-depth article on the subject Clotilde, but just a reminder of the beautiful bubbly wine that comes out of her celler after 18 months on the lees: Clotilde Davenne Crémant de Bourgogne Brut Extra. Traditional method and without dosage. Crispy, refreshing with notes of bread, citrus and apples. Lovely mousse, palate filling, mouth-watering acidity and long, lovely aftertaste.

Clotilde Davenne Cremant de Bourgogne Brut Extra

Home for Clotilde is the estate “Les Temps Perdus” just outside Chablis in northern Burgundy. Not suprising, her speciality is delicious Chablis wines, Chardonnay treated with utmost finesse. (It is really not an overstatement to say she has a great experience of Chablis. Before focusing solely on her own label, she was for 17 years winemaker at renowed Jean-Marc Brocard in Chablis.)

Clotilde’s crémant is made of the classic Burgundy grapes, i.e. the same as used in Champagne. The cuvée holds 60% Pinot Noir and 40% Chardonnay.

Crémant at its very best. A quality that can outshine many basic champagnes. Something to keep in store, easy at hand when cravings for some super crispy bubbles set in. Clotilde’s superb bubbles.

Swedish importer: Terrific wines .
Link to Clotilde Davenne’s homepage.